Let me introduce you to my good buddy here
Winston. That’s right man’s best friend. And of course he’s a miniature labrador.
Well he’s mostly Chihuahua mix. But he loves to chase birds and balls. He also loves to
lay on all kinds of soft and cozy items like laying in the sun here in his awesome new
dog bed. Check this out, Shannon Fabrics came up with this rough, rough cuddle. And when
I saw it, I thought Winston It’s time to upgrade. You ready to get started today. I’m showing you how to make this dog bed.
And we’re going to do it in basically two major parts, right? We’re going to do a
base, both sides. And we’re also going to make this awesome wall. And I’m going to
show you how to use a companion fabric also. This is all of the cuddle fabric from Shannon.
And if you haven’t worked with this stuff before it is incredibly soft and snuggly.
One or two little parts and cautions to give you. When you are cutting it, it may shift
a little bit. That’s ok because when you sew it it also shifts a little bit which makes
it very, very easy to construct. My biggest thing is when I am cutting this stuff down
it makes a bunch of fuzz and lint because of the nap in the fabric. So I keep a shop
vac very handy and after I cut, I vacuum before I move anything. Helps me keep my studio much
more tidy, right? Now for you, 27 inches also known as ¾ of a yard will do all of the dog
bed for basically our little ten pound buddies, right? Also I’ve used a ¼ yard of the complimentary
fabric. If you wanted to do it all out of one piece of course just get yourself a yard,
you’ll have plenty. And as often we do here at Man Sewing, down in the description below,
that’s right, we’ve got a printable for you today. And the printable is going to show
you how I’ve cut out our pieces to maximize our 60 inch goods. The Shannon cuddle is 60
inch wide. And also to teach you how to figure your perimeter in case you’re making a bed
that is bigger than what I’m making. That way you know the philosophy and how I am doing
this, right? So with that said, I’m going to set my coordinating fabric aside and walk
you through the pieces that are out on the table. You can tell I’m very excited about this
project today. The first cut I made, because this was 60 inches wide this way, is I went
ahead and cut off seven inches by 60 inches. And that’s going to be one of the major
parts that forms the wall of the bed, right? And I’m going to need that in a minute so
I’m just going to set it aside for a second. With the remaining 20 inches by 60 inches
you’re going to be able to get the top of the bed and the bottom of the bed. Those are
cut for me at 15 by 20. Then I’m also going to need a little bit of this 27 inch piece.
This is going to extend the wall long enough to go all the way around the perimeter. Give
me a couple of extra inches for those corners. And then the way I’m going to show you how
to overlap it here in just a second. And then you’re also going to have a bit of extra
fabric in case you want to make your walls a little bit bigger to make the bed a little
bit bigger. Or to increase the size of your rectangles. And that’s way more information
than you need. Let’s show you how to get this all stitched together. First step for the stitching together today
is to create the walls first. And as I said earlier, I used two different fabrics because
I love the way that that zig zag or that chevron also work together with the rough, rough cuddle.
So these two pieces you’ll also have made out of your coordinate. Again the 60 by seven
inches and the 20 by seven inch. Now when you’re joining the cuddle, it has a bit
of nap. So what I do is I just pet the fabric to make sure that all of the fiber or all
of the nap is heading in the same direction. So I’m just going to go ahead and fold this
over. Most of this is going to be about a ⅜ inch seam allowance or a ¼ inch seam
allowance. I’ll tell you what, this is very good and strong fibers. So you can sew pretty
close to the edges. And you’re going to want to do that when you’re joining in the
seams into the bottom here in just a second. So I’m going to join my short and long pieces
for the wall. Oh my new sewing machine has got a built in caffeinated mode which I absolutely
love as well. And here comes the joining of the coordinating
fabrics as well. You can see I seamed them together just like I did these pieces. And
just a quick reminder, these are for the wall so these are the same pieces, a six, excuse
me, a seven by 60 and a 20 by seven. And what these are going to do is these are going to
lay together like this, right sides together. And I’m just going to sew down both sides.
I am not going to sew the openings closed yet. Let me show you how that works out. I’ve
got one already made up for us, ok? So you can see here the tube has been joined. You
can see the seams on both sides, right? And then all you have to do, you don’t even
need the cool tube turning trick from Man Sewing. This stuff is so easy and soft and
cozy to put your hand inside. So go ahead and grab it and start turning this. We’re
going to need our wall set to the right sides out for the rest of our construction. And
I’m going to teach you how to put this onto the base real quick. But I need to get it
all ready here. A little shake out. I bet all of you have some fantastic pets at home.
I find that most quilting and sewing and crafters have a big affection especially for cats.
And I don’t know if it’s that cats adopt us or we adopt the cats but it seems like
especially quilters all love cats. I’ve got cats, dogs, and reptiles as some of you
have seen. Back to the tutorial at hand.We have our wall
turned right sides out. Now we’re going to simply join this to one of those 15 by
20 rectangles, ok? We are going to kind of treat this like we are building a pillowcase,
meaning that I’m going to set it. And I want actually to have my coordinating piece
on the outside. So I’m going to stitch it with my coordinating piece facing up like
this, ok? I’m going to start about four inches in from the beginning of my wall. I’m
going to stitch all the way around with the right sides together. And you can trim your
corners if you feel it’s necessary but we’re going to secure those down. And when I come
all the way back around like this with that sewing machine. I want you to check this out
real quick, too. While you’re preparing this you do have a nice thick seam that we’ve
created when we joined the, the wall pieces. Let’s try not to get that set up in the
corner, right? So if I need to cheat this back just a little ways from the corner here
then I’m just going to come down here and start in a little different location. I don’t
want to try to corner around that thick seam. So I can just adjust this. When you’re stitching
with the Shannon using a few pins, I should call it the cuddle fabric. There’s lots
of cool cuddle fabrics out there. You want to go ahead and possibly pin as you go along,
ok? And let me show you the way this turns out before I fumble this around and make you
all seasick as you’re watching, right? Because I really want to show you how to join the
ends. The reason we’re going to join the ends kind of differently is we need to be
able to stuff the walls and the bed individually just like you’re blowing up a raft, right?
So you blow up the pillow and you blow up the parts of the body of the raft. So here
you can see I have stitched around almost all the way but I’ve given myself some working
space, right? Then what I want to show you, let’s flip it over like this, is that I
still have a little bit of extra overlap in my actual wall. What we’re going to do now
is we’re going to figure out how much we need. So I’m going to pull this nice and
taut and I’m going to bring this over. And remember we’re using roughly ⅜ maybe a
¼ inch seam allowance. So I’ve got a little more fabric than I need here. So I’m just
going to grab myself a nice pair of scissors or you could use your rotary cutter. I am
going to trim off about a ¼ of an inch. Again the beauty of working with this fabric is
there is a little bit of wiggle room and flexibility. Now what I’m going to do is I’m going
to grab the inner wall pieces. Right now I’m using that red, the part with the dogs on
it. And I’m going to join them at the seams here right sides together. We’re going over to the sewing machine.
And I’m actually going to stitch about 80% of this tube closed. So I’m actually starting
past the red onto the zig zag . And we’re going to take this nice and slow. And the
reason I’m only going about 80% around my tube here is I want to make sure that I have
a place to stuff it. Ready, here we go. Now as I’m sewing this all together, I’m using
my hands on the underside to make sure I’m only stitching the two layers together that
I want. It’s a little bit of tight sewing in here. Just take it nice and slow. Coming
around. And I’ll show you the opening here in just a second, let me get it finished off
for us. This will be handstitched so you want to have an opening large enough to stuff and
small enough to not spend all weekend sewing it closed. That looks good there. Now as I
come out of the machine, what I want to show you here is that I have now stitched the wall
closed. But I have enough of an opening here on the zig zag side right to go ahead and
get the stuffing in there. And once that’s happened I still am going to come in here
back to the machine now with the right sides together . And I need to finish that space
where I joined the wall to the bottom of the dog bed. Here we go. And I guess I shouldn’t
be so selfish, of course cat’s need beds as well but my dog was really ready for that
upgrade, I’m telling you what. And the nice thing about my dog bed I found is I put in
twice the amount of stuffing that you would find in the standard dog beds from the grocery
story and what at the pet story. So he really likes it. Ok. The wall has been finished off.
And so all of that seam allowance is now stitched closed there, right? So we are ready to actually
do some of the final construction of putting the now it would be the top into the dog bed.
So this would be right sides together also. Now watch what I’m doing here. I’m taking
a moment to fold in the corners. And this would not be a terrible time to take a straight
pin or if you’re concerned about getting poked, we might want to take a safety pin.
I want to get all of the bulk away from these edges that I’ll be stitching around, right?
And then we’re going to ahead, oh that’s a small little pin. I got a half size pin
out of my pin, my pin cushion over there. It must have been a discount. Then what I
need is one more of these top pieces here that I’ve got, ok? And this is going to
be the piece that was the leftover. This was too big. I’ll be right back with the smaller
piece. It’s just hidden down here. See told you that wouldn’t take long. This is the
piece we’re after. Now this is going to go ahead and lay on here as I said, right
sides together. And just a reminder we’re going to leave a nice opening so we can pull
all of the meat of the bed back out through there. One of the things I find, especially
on the little bit smaller machines at home, is it’s easiest if I’m sewing kind of
from the top so I can see all of the meat so I can see what’s going on with the seam
allowances trying to pull away. The other thing I like to do is I like to make sure
the opening for where we’re stuffing the walls is on the same side of the bed as the
opening where we’re going to stuff the bottom. So I can hand sew it and hide that in a back
corner or something like that all at once. So here we go. I’m going to start stitching.
And if you’re using a smaller machine, well any machine, let’s go ahead and backstitch.
And then if I’m using a little bit smaller sewing machine, I just want to make sure I
don’t have that feel where I feel that I need to push into the machine. Now this is
the new Baby Lock Jane that I love so much. And this thing has got some nice horsepower
and some nice feed to it. And I’m organizing my corner right now. So as I go through I’m
not having much of a struggle at all with this machine. But some of you may at home.
So you just want to, you want to fight that tendency to push that will sometimes break
needles and whatnot. Cornering is nice and easy here. Get this going right out of the
corner there. And again just kind of sewing right on that seam allowance I used to join
the wall to the bottom layer of the bed. Once you get the feel for sewing on the cuddle
it works really great. I’ll tell you though the first time I was doing it, I was actually
doing a glued project as well. So I was cutting this stuff and glueing it at the same time.
Talk about being tarred and feathered. The fiber that comes off from the wonderful texture
that’s created by this cuddle sure sticks to the glue. My scissors were coated. Everything,
it was hilarious. Oh this is turning out fantastic. Here we
go. Got almost done. And I’m going to stop with a few inches to spare. Of course backstitch
again. We want to lock that in because we’re going to be putting a little bit of force
on the stuff. Now I’ve got the opening in the bed right here. Just barely enough that
I can get my hand inside. So I’m going to start and don’t, what am I trying to say.
Be careful. You don’t want those pins in there. So when you start to pop that through,
this is why we’ve backstitched those corners so I can get a little forceful with this.
And once I get ahold of it I can start pulling. And as I said, be careful we’ve got those
pins in there now. Kind of pushing and pulling. And then you probably want to go out and get
a dump truck full of polyfil stuffing because that’s our next step. We’re going to stuff
this bad boy. And I literally, I think I used two of the 24 ounce bags. And I stuff my walls
first. And then I stuffed the base. Once the base and the walls were stuffed I went ahead
and stitched everything closed by hand. But let me show you how this is all finished up
now, ok? So here we are looking at the base stitched together. You’ve got your wonderful
coordinating walls. Here’s that opening here so you have stuff like your polyfil stuffing,
right? One of the tricks you can do when you are
stuffing, if you just take this like this and you just wad it in here, it could be a
little bit lumpy. So what a lot of us like to do is we’ll take our stuffing actually
and you want to kind of pull it apart. Now if you have small kids around the house this
is the perfect job for them to do. So you want to fluff it before you stuff it. And
then you take that and you’re going to go ahead and take that to pack it in here. Now
one of the reasons I left the opening as wide as I did, and I found this to actually be
necessary, is I was able to feed the stuffing all the way around to about the halfway point
because you need to get it nicely stuffed and evenly stuffed all the way around the
outside walls. So if your arms aren’t that long you could also use a yardstick or something
to poke in there. But you’re literally just going to stuff something. And as you’re
stuffing these walls, and the reason we stuff the walls first is that it makes the bottom
of the bed more pliable or it’s easier to get to. So I can actually take lots and lots
of my stuffing and kind of lightly fluff it like I was showing you. And then I can work
it back. You don’t have to push every handful to the back corner actually. What you can
do is work it in big sections. So pre-fluff a little. Back into the wall. And then you
can see that that’s a pretty good size pile of stuffing. And then from that point we can
stick our hands back in and we can to manipulate through and use this outside hand to pull
as you can see the tube, right? And as you can see you keep pushing and pushing the stuffing
until you get it nice and firm. Let me show you here on this bed. It gets nice and firm
because the walls actually build the structure of the bed and keep everything from sagging
in. And it makes it look nice and tidy in your home. That’s why we’re choosing this
super cool fabric to use. So it looks great and our pets love it of course. Once the entire wall system is stuffed, that’s
when you’re going to come back to the outer wall. And I kind of pull on my seams a little
bit. I hope you can see this ok. And I’m going to whip stitch this closed by hand.
And once that’s completely finished then I’m going to come and stuff the bottom of
the bed, right? That’s where I’m going to find that same opening that I left. Here
it is. And I’ll be able to go ahead and push the fiber in much more easily especially
because the walls are all in place. And it shows you what you still need to fill. Once
the bottom is all stuffed then you can go ahead and do the same thing and pinch it.
And that’s why it’s on the bottom of the bed. And you’ll whip stitch that closed
with a hand needle as well. I don’t think I mentioned earlier but of course polyester
thread is nice. And all of this is totally washable because I used the polyester polyfil
and the Shannon cuddle is a very washable fabric as well. And as you can see the bottom of the bed.
This is an awfully lot more stuffing than you’re going to find in those standard commercially
made beds. Hey my dog is man’s best friend right? Or especially Man Sewing’s best friend
and so I wanted to treat him right. And so I over double stuffed this for him so he would
be super soft and cozy. And of course as I said earlier I know most of us are huge pet
fans so do me a favor this week and all those wonderful comments you send in, I want to
see pictures of you and your pets and the awesome new dog or cat bed you just made for
them. And we’ll check you out here next time at Man Sewing.